What do you do when you’re an early bird and start work not until late morning?
A surfing session while the sun is still rising sounds just about right. Or to be honest, sounds absolutely incredible to me. And it is!
I only recently discovered the early morning to be a perfect time for the most amazing surf experience. So often I’ve seen many surfers out in the water before 6am when coming down to the beach, but it never really clicked in my mind to just join in until a few weeks ago something inside me changed. I woke up and just had to go.
The sky slowly started to get covered by a warm blanket of sunshine. The day was calm and filled with warm summer air and I couldn’t help it but grab my board and head to the ocean.
I love surfing. I am not overly great at it, but I can catch some nice waves here and there and to be honest, I don’t really care if I can’t do fancy tricks. I’m happy as long as I can paddle around and find a wave to ride. I love how it brings me close to nature and teaches me that we cannot control it; I love how it clears my mind from problems that are not problems; I love how it requires me to be patient; and more than that I love how I feel absolute freedom, at peace, and excitement from the moment of walking into the ocean.
That’s how I found myself 6 o’clock in the morning putting on my wetsuit for a surf. The water felt so fresh, even a little chilly as if it was still waking up after a good night’s sleep. Clean waves were rolling in right in front of me under the spotlight of a beautiful sunrise. Having all of this combined in one moment – the beauty of nature completely taking over – I couldn’t help it but smile. I caught my first wave and couldn’t even see where I was going as the sun was shining so bright in my eyes. But I didn’t have to. It was breathtaking to feel like I was floating, not being attached to anything but just let the wave carry me. Now that was a start into the day.
I’m not sure why this had such a magical tweak to it. For years, I’ve been going for early morning runs seeing the most beautiful sunrises; I’ve been joining sunrise yoga classes that kicked off my day with so much positive energy; so many times have I been biking to work on stunning mornings, but that surf was different.
It was a moment where I felt peaceful silence in the most colorful surrounding while the cells of my body were pumped with adrenaline. Becoming one with the ocean and just letting nature take over, not only released an immense passion inside me; it also taught me once again that life is beautiful if you only let it be.
And funnily enough I’ve chosen to capture that exact moment right on my surfboard when painting it months ago…